Antequera to Ronda

Before leaving Antequera this morning we went to visit the Alcazaba of Antequera. An alcazaba is a Moorish fortress. The Alcazaba is, not surprisingly, the highest point in Antequera. The audio guide was interesting and the views were stupendous.

The Alcazaba in Antequera
Roger in the tower
The view

From Antequera we drove to Ronda. We have magnificent rooms in the Parador overlooking the gorge and the Ronda New bridge which was completed in 1793

Our welcome treat at the Ronda Parador
The Ponte Nuevo from our room

We went out for a walk.

Our Parador
The Bull in front of the bullring

For dinner we ate at a wonderful nearby restaurant, Las Tablas.

Duke’s duck
My mixed seafood and beef grill

The view from our room at night is even better than the daytime view.

Rhonda Ponte Nuevo

Granada to Antequera

We went to a bakery near our hotel for breakfast this morning. The pastries were truly works of art.

Choosing our breakfast pastries.
Breakfast. We are waiting for our coffee.

After breakfast we checked out of the hotel and drove about an hour and a half west to the town of Antequera. We are staying at the Parador in Antequera.

We got a map from the front desk with a suggested walking route to see the town. I also had some ideas of what I wanted to see from a YouTube video about Antequera made by Margaret of Moon in Spain. So we went out exploring and luckily the rain held off. First we walked by the Bullring.

The Antequera Bullring

Next we stopped at the Church of San Juan de Dios. The baroque interior was absolutely stunning.

Altar of San Juan de Dios Church
Entry of San Juan de Dios Church
The sacristy

The grocery store and bakery a little bit farther down the road was a perfect place for an afternoon snack. We felt it was important to sample the local lenten treat, Torrijas. The bakery lady explained that they are traditional to this area and eaten during lent. They start out a bit like American french toast but some are soaked in a sweet syrup or covered with cinnamon and sugar. We have seen them coated in chocolate and filled with custard. I can attest to the fact that Torrijas are delicious!

Trying Torrijas

We browsed the grocery store. The selection of hams and the wide variety of price always impresses me.

Jamon
Me perusing the hams

Gayle and I enjoyed visiting with two of Antequera’s famous sons.

Art without Time statue

In 1410 the Moors were defeated in Antequera and were forced to leave. They went to Granada. This statue commemorates them. It was erected in 2010. I found it really moving.

Homenaje a los Antiqiries
Homenaje a los Antiqiries

We walked back to the Parador, had our welcome drinks and played cards.

For dinner we walked back in to town and ate at a place called Restaurante Abrasador Bodegas Triana. Our waiter said their specialty is barbecue. Gayle and I had beef and Roger and Duke had pork. It was all delicious.

Restaurants Abrasador Bodegas Tirana
The pork
The beef
Pistachio cake and ice cream
I think this was bienmesabe, a sweet local desert made with almonds, egg yolks and honey.

Granada Day 2

Breakfasts in the Paradors we have visited have always been wonderful. This morning there was a fruit on the buffet that I had not seen before. It was cherimoya. The word is the same in Spanish and in English. It was sweet and a bit creamy.

Chirimollo
Part of the Parador breakfast buffet

After breakfast we checked out the parador garden.

Parador gardens

Roger and Gayle had a noon reservation for the Alhambra tour. We checked out of the Parador. Roger and Gayle went on their tour and Duke and I drove down into central Grenada and checked into our hotel. We are staying at the Melia. Our room is spacious and comfortable with a nice balcony.

Waiting for the Alhambra tour.

We woke up to what we thought was heavy fog this morning but it turns out that the air is thick with Saharan sand blown in ahead of the current storm. Everything is incredibly dirty and you can see the dirty air.

The view from our balcony.

I mailed postcards.

Mailing postcards

We met Roger and Gayle after their tour and walked with them down to the hotel

Duke and Washington Irving
Walking down from the Alhambra

The man helping us with our luggage said dirty air won’t be a problem tomorrow because it will be pouring rain!

For dinner I had wonderful octopus.

Octopus for dinner

Córdoba to Granada

This morning when we woke up it was pouring rain. After breakfast we left Córdoba and drove to Granada. We saw lots and lots of olive trees and it rained the whole way.

Olive trees in the rain

The Alhambra in Granada is one of the top sites in Spain. It is very special. Duke has been to Granada four times before and I have been here three times.

Every time we have visited we have thought how wonderful it would be to stay at the Granada Parador which is actually inside the Alhambra. We usually have coffee in the bar and daydream. But the Granada Parador is the most expensive hotel in the Parador system. It usually costs at least $400 a night to stay in the Granada Parador. But this time Duke found a special deal to stay here for one night for much less. It’s very exciting, something I’ve really wanted to do.

Driving up to the Alhambra
Inside the Granada Parador

We went out exploring, then had our welcome drinks and played cards.

Our room is on the left.
Puerta del Vino
Palacio Carlos V

Dinner in Spain is late. Our reservation at the Parador restaurant was for nine. Before dinner we went out to explore a bit more. Being able to have the Alhambra to yourself at night is one of the big advantages of staying here.

The Alhambra at night
Our Parador

For dinner I had veal, Duke had lamb stew, and Roger and Gayle had sea bass. it was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Veal
Sea Bass

Seville to Córdoba

This morning started out with an adventure.

About two weeks ago Duke asked the Parador where we were staying to call the Parador in the Spanish enclave of Ceuta in North Africa. He asked them to find out whether the land border between Ceuta and Morocco was open. A few months ago Morocco was allowing no foreigners to enter the country. Then they opened their border to people flying in. The Parador in Ceuta said the land border was not open and they had no idea when it would be open.

Our original itinerary had us taking the ferry across the Straight of Gibraltar and then crossing into Morocco at the land border Since that is no longer an option Duke had to change our plans. He changed the rental car to turn it in at Malaga airport and booked a flight from Malaga to Tangier. He got confirmations for all the changes.

When we arrived by taxi at the Eurocar rental office this morning in Seville the agent told Duke the reservation had been cancelled and it would cost about $500 more to rent the car we had reserved. After quite a bit of discussion, trying to call Eurocar customer service unsuccessfully, and searching for options from other companies we gave up on Eurocar and booked a car through Enterprise. Eventually two hours behind our original plan we were on the road out of Seville heading towards Córdoba

Duke getting the rental car. Finally!!

The drive was uneventful and beautiful with orange trees and olive trees in all the fields we passed. We checked into our Parador in Cordoba.

Checking in to the Parador
The terrace at the Parador of Córdoba

Next we drove into the town center to see the old Roman Bridge and visit the Mezquita-Catedral. The Córdoba Cathedral is built in the center of the former Mosque. The Mosque was massive. The Mosque-Cathedral is one of my favorite sights in Spain.

The Roman Bridge
Mezquita-Catedral
Exterior of the Córdoba Mezquita-Catedral

There didn’t seem to be any restaurants open near our Parador. The front desk did suggest a Chinese Restaurant but we decided to eat in the Parador bar. I had the ham sandwich and everyone else had the hamburgers.

3 hamburgers and a ham sandwich