Today we drove south and west to a secluded beach north of Valdivia. Pilolcura Lodge is in an idyllic spot right on the beach and there are only a few houses and a very few people here. It’s all incredibly relaxing and peaceful.
We had fish for dinner overlooking the foggy beach.
Today was a easy driving day through miles of lovely Chilean scenery. Tonight we are in La Araucanía near the town of Curacautín.
I learned a new word today. The sign below warns about “baches” in the road. We had to look it up. It means potholes. There were indeed potholes like moon craters in this section of road.
We are staying at a guest house east of Curacautín so along the way we stopped and bought groceries for dinner.
It was wonderful to wake up this morning knowing that we didn’t need to pack up because we are spending two nights in this beautiful spot. After a tasty breakfast we talked to the manager about nearby hikes. We decided to do a hike in Huerquehue National Park. We ended up hiking ten miles with almost 2000 ft elevation gain. The hike had lakes, waterfalls, and wonderful volcanoes views.
We are sore and worn out tonight. It was soothing to soak in the riverside hot spring after we got back to our room.
Today was another beautiful day. We took our time driving through the Lake District.
We stopped for coffee in Licon Ray.
Tonight we are staying at Peumayen Lodge overlooking the Liucura River. There is a wonderful natural rock hot tub on the edge of the river just below our room. We are
looking forward to soaking in it later.
Today was a beautiful day. We could just barely see the volcano popping out of the clouds as we left Ensenada.
We drove through some idyllic country to Panguipulli where we are tonight.
Panguipulli sits on a lake also named Panguipulli. The volcano Shashuenco is in the distance.
You may have seen Chile in the news lately. There have been demonstrations all over the country. Here is a New York Times article about the unrest. We have seen broken and boarded up windows everywhere we have been.
Because of the demonstrations we have decided to err on the side of caution and change our itinerary. We will not go to any of the big cities where the rioting has been the worst. We have taken Santiago, Concepcion, and Valparaíso off our itinerary and are instead staying out in the countryside.
This morning we left the island of Chiloe and drove to Ensenada in the Chilean Lake District. It has been rainy and totally overcast all day so we can’t see any of what is reputed to be great scenery. The guide book says we have a great view of Volcán Osorno from here. I hope the weather is better tomorrow so we can see it.
We are staying in a geodesic dome at Cabañas Abilene Bosque Nativo just outside of Ensenada. Our cabaña is totally off the grid. We have a fire in the wood stove and we are deliciously cozy.
We are eating dinner here tonight.
If you would like a tour of our cabana you will find one on my YouTube channel in a couple of days.
Tuesday morning we left Quellón at the south end of Chiloé and headed north. We stopped in Castro, the Capital of Chiloé. Right on the central square there is a beautiful, big yellow and lavender church, Iglesias de San Francisco. I think the all wood interior is gorgeous.
Just north of Castro we headed east and then took a short car ferry ride to the island of Quinchao, one of the 41 islands in the Chiloé archipelago. We are staying just out side of the town of Achao. In town we walked around a bit and visited the wooden Iglesias de Santa Maria de Loreto. It was built on 1730 and is the oldest house of worship in Chili. I especially liked the floors that still have the axe marks from when they were cut.
The hotel where we stayed is on a hill overlooking the harbor. The building appeared to be relatively new. It had pretty rough wood paneling throughout. Our room had a nice big window and expansive view. The building wasn’t heated but our room was warm because we had an electric heater. The whole place was a bit strange. We were the only people in the building besides the owner, there was no internet, and the bottom sheet on the squeaky bed had no elastic so it only covered the mattress when we first went to bed!