Destiny of the Republic by Candice Millard

I just finished reading Candice Millard’s book Destiny of the Republic. The subtitle of the book is A tale of Madness, Medicine and the Murder of a President. That pretty much sums up this book about our twentieth president, James Garfield and his assassination.

Destiny of the Republic is the latest book I have completed as a part of my Presidential Reading Project. I’m reading at least one book about each of our presidents. If you would like to see a summary of my progress, a list of the books I’ve read and links to my reviews of them is here.

James Garfield was born in 1831. He was inaugurated as President in March of 1881. He was shot in July of 1881 and he died September 19, 1881. He was just 49.

Garfield did not want to run for president. He was drafted on the 36th ballot taken at the Republican National Convention in Chicago. He appears to have been a truly good man who wanted to bring the country together. I think he would have been an excellent president.

Garfield’s vice presidential running mate was chosen with no input from Garfield. Chester Arthur had never held a public position except as Collector of the New York Customs House a position he was appointed to for political reasons. Politically he was the creation of Roscoe Conkling the senator from New York who was probably the most powerful man in the country and perhaps also the most corrupt.

Even though Joseph Lister and the antiseptic surgery he pioneered were widely accepted in Europe in 1881, the idea of germs was considered laughable by the doctors who treated Garfield. He probably would have lived if the doctors had not introduced germs as they repeatedly searched for the assassin’s bullet. Ultimately it was the infection that killed Garfield.

Destiny of the Republic is a fascinating book. Millard knows how to tell a story and educate you at the same time. Another of her books that I enjoyed is The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt’s Darkest Journey.

Garfield’s assassination by a madman who thought he was doing God’s work was so pointless. Nevertheless I thoroughly enjoyed Destiny of the Republic. I appreciated the hopefulness of it. Garfield became President shortly after the end of the Civil War at a time when our country seemed irrevocably divided. I especially like one of the points Millard makes about Garfield in the epilogue.

“The horror and senselessness of his death, and the wasted promise of his life, brought tremendous change to the country he loved — change that, had it come earlier, almost certainly would have spared his life. Garfield’s long illness and painful death brought the country together in a way that, even the day before the assassination attempt had seemed to most Americans impossible. “

California Sierras Camping – Lower Blue Lake and Highland Lakes – Hiking to Granite Lake

Last Sunday and Monday nights Duke and I went camping south of Lake Tahoe in the Sierras. The skies were smoke free and the scenery was stunning.

Sunday we camped in Middle Creek campground just below Upper Blue Lake. Our campsite was right next to a stream. We could see little fish jumping in the nearest pool.

Our campsite in Middle Creek campground

After setting up camp we hiked to nearby Granite Lake.

On the trail to Granite Lake
Granite Lake

Monday we drove to the Highland Lakes area just south of Ebbett’s Pass. We had another great campsite. We could see the lake in the distance.

Our campsite at Highland Lakes Campground
Highland Lake

The drive home on Tuesday took us about two hours. Reno and our house are totally buried in smoke from the wildfires near us and in California.

The only bad thing about this trip was that the battery in our new Ford truck was dead both mornings. The truck had to be jump started. We have an appointment to take it in for repairs in a couple of weeks.

Backcountry Exploring – Modoc National Forest, Cave Lake campground, Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge, and Gooch Spring campground.

Duke and I  have decided to go out camping and exploring every couple of weeks during this time of quarantine. It is a great way to maintain our mental health, such as it is! We just returned from a trip to the area where the northeast corner of California and the northwest corner of Nevada meet.

We drove north from Reno on highway 395 almost to the Oregon border and camped the first night at Cave Lake forest service campground. We had a lovely isolated camp spot just a short walk from the lake.

Because there was going to be a full moon we wanted to stay up until the moon cleared the  mountains. After dinner we sat by the fire for a while and then sat in the truck and listed to the wonderful This week in Virology podcast.  In the morning when we were ready to leave the truck wouldn’t start. The battery in our relatively new truck was dead! Luckily we have a portable jump starter which worked perfectly.

We drove east into California and into the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge. Just inside the refuge we took a side road to the top of Bald Mountain where there is a fire lookout tower and a magnificent 360 degree view.

They also had something I had never seen before, a Faraday Cage Shelter.

As we drove through the refuge we saw several groups of Pronghorn antelope. Unfortunately they were all in the distance but they are extremely fast and fun to watch.

All the campgrounds in the refuge had “No Campfires” signs. I’m sure the restriction is because of the high fire danger. So our camp at Gooch Spring was a dry camp.

The horizon was a long way away and there were no trees so the moon was spectacular when it came up.

If you would like to see more details of our route you can click the map below to open an interactive CalTopo map in a new browser tab.

NE CA and NW NV Aug 2020

Nevada Outback Exploring – Jarbidge Mountains, Big Bend Campground, Pine Creek Campground

Duke and I just returned from three days exploring the Jarbidge Mountain area of northeast Nevada. It was a wonderful back country adventure

We just returned from a two night camping trip in northeast Nevada. We were primarily in the Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest, essentially we circled the Jarbidge Wilderness Area.

On Thursday we drove east on Interstate Highway 80 to Elko and then took highway 225 north to Wild Horse Reservoir where we turned east and left the pavement. Our campsite Thursday night was Big Bend campground just inside the National Forest. The campground had 19 sites but only about 4 were occupied. It was lush with Aspens and wildflowers.

 

Big Bend Campground, Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest

View from Big Bend Campground, Humboldt Toiyabe National Forrest

On Friday we continued exploring. We went north and even crossed briefly into Idaho before heading south along the Jarbidge River through the tiny town of Jarbidge.

Road along the Jarbidge River

Jarbidge, Nevada

Jarbidge River

Our campsite Friday night was right next to the river in the Pine Creek campground.

Our campsite in Pine Creek Campground

One of the things that really struck us on this trip was how the mountains, canyons, and creeks were so unlike stereotypical Nevada landscape.

The view from Bear Creek Summit

On a slightly different note. Take a look at the piece of wood we used as a work surface on this trip.

It is a single plank from what must have been a very big tree. I remember it as my Grandfather (Poppy’s) workbench in the basement of my Grandparent’s house in Bismarck, North Dakota. It was passed down to my Dad and then to me. Duke recently sanded it down, stained and sealed it. It is a gorgeous piece of wood. I’d love to know where it came from. Poppy’s family homesteaded in western North Dakota. There were certainly no big trees there. He was born in Wisconsin so perhaps that’s where it came from. Who knows.

If you would like to see more details of our route you can click the map below to open an interactive CalTopo map in a new browser tab.

Jarbidge Area July 2020 Northeast Nevada Backcountry Route around the Jarbidge Wilderness Area.

Madrid to Reno

We made it home. We left for the Airport in Madrid about 6:20 am Madrid time on Monday and finally arrived home 36 hours later. There was a long line to check in at the airport in Madrid but it moved fairly quickly.

The check in line in Madrid

Our flight from Madrid to Miami was quite good. It was only about half full. Getting through health screening, customs and immigration and rechecking our bags in Miami took less than an hour. In Madrid airport they were making regular announcements to keep a one meter distance between people. In Miami that didn’t seem to be a concern.

Our flight from Miami to San Francisco was almost full. My middle seat made for a long flight.

My daughter and her family left our truck for us at the airport in San Francisco. About 1am Tuesday morning we were on the road home to Reno.

Loading our truck in San Francisco

There was very little traffic. We stopped to nap a couple of times. Interstate 80 was closed through the mountains so we sat in a parking lot in the town of Colfax for several hours.

Interstate 80 through the Sierras

It feels surreal to have been in the middle of a two month trip one day and be home the next. Duke is busy working on trying to get refunds. We are doing laundry and going through the mail. I will update our itinerary and the final videos of the trip on my YouTube channel in the next couple of days.

Córdoba to Madrid

We woke up this morning to the news that all hotels in Spain will close tomorrow. We were able to get a plane ticket home for Monday. In Córdoba we went to the bus station. Almost everything was closed up but luckily the rental car office was open and we were able to rent a car.

Archaeological ruins in the bus station parking garage where we picked up
our rental car.

We drove the four hours to a hotel next to the airport in Madrid where we are now.

Sign on the freeway. “It is prohibited to travel without justification “.

Our flight leaves early Monday morning. We have a connection in Miami and if the U.S. entry process isn’t too slow we will be in San Francisco by midnight. We have our fingers crossed.

Sevilla to Córdoba

This morning we took the train from Sevilla to Cordoba. We are changing our plans. No more public transit. We will rent a car tomorrow. No Madrid or Barcelona. We plan to stay out in the country, limit human contact and take it easy until we head home. We don’t know exactly when that will be but it will be earlier than originally planned. As of today most things are closed down here.

The Sevilla train station.

Once we had checked in to our hotel in Córdoba we went out and bought groceries. We are planning to eat in the room tonight. We walked along the River for a bit. Córdoba is a beautiful city.

The Roman bridge in Córdoba

Sevilla

This morning we had breakfast in our hotel.

The breakfast buffet at our hotel

The Cathedral is very near our hotel so about 10:30 we walked over and stood in line to go in. The Sevilla Cathedral is the biggest Gothic Cathedral in the world and the third largest Cathedral after St Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s in London.

Standing in line to get into the Sevilla Cathedral
Christopher Columbus’ Tomb

This afternoon we had our last beers with Rick and Elaine while sitting in a street cafe people watching.

Eventually we headed back to our hotel. The hotel called a taxi for us and we all went to the airport and Duke and I saw them off on their trip home. We took the bus back into town and walked through the park back to our hotel.

We had a wonderful dinner in a nearby cafe then walked by the museum we want to visit tomorrow to check their hours. Unfortunately this sign greated us. It says they are closed for 15 days because of the rules from the ministry of health.

Carmona to Sevilla

We returned our rental car in Sevilla this morning. The final few streets to the hotel were very narrow and quite nerve racking. After dropping off our friends and the luggage Duke and I took the car to the train stain to turn it in then walked back to our hotel.

The street we came down to get to our hotel.

Our room wasn’t ready so we took a horse and buggy ride around the old town.

In the Plaza de España
The Catedral de Sevilla

Sevilla’s center is a wonderful place to walk or sit and have a snack.

Our friends are cutting their trip short and heading home tomorrow. We of course are not going to do the Italian part of our trip. Duke spent the afternoon cancelling reservations.

After dinner we walked around the Cathedral and enjoyed the peaceful and beautiful setting.

Arcos de la Frontera to Carmona

Tonight we are staying in the Parador de Carmona a little east of Sevilla. Before we left Arcos de la Frontera this morning we walked around the town. We checked out a view point and a church.

The drive from Arcos to Carmona was over relatively flat farm country. The crops we could identify included carrots, wheat, olives and grapes. There were also many crops we couldn’t identify.

In Carmona we are staying at a Parador on the sight of the former city wall and castle.

Parador de Carmona
Admiring the view from our friend’s room

After enjoying our welcome drinks we went out exploring. We checked out the Carmona city museum. This area has been inhabited for six thousand years. The museum had exhibits about the people who have lived here over those years.

Mosaics in the Carmona city museum

We had dinner in the Parador dining room.

Duke had fish cooked in a salt crust
I had venison in a strawberry sauce.
Chocolate fondant and mint ice cream