Author: marionvermazen

I am a traveler, hiker, avid reader, Sun alumnus, computer geek, Spanish and French language student, knitter and genealogist. I am retired after working for almost 30 years in the Computer Industry. I live in Reno, Nevada with my husband Duke.

Cajamarca to Huamachuco

Friday we left Cajamarca and took a bus to Cajabamba. The bus was full and very warm. It was about a three hour ride. From Cajabamba we took a very full collectivo over a bumpy road to Huamachuco, about a 90 minute ride. 

I’ve picked up a head cold so Saturday I pretty much rested all day in our hotel room. 

Something I have seen several times in the past few days is women walking down the street knitting! I’ve also seen a couple of women spinning wool into yarn while walking!!

Probably the most memorable thing about Huamachuco is the topiary in the main square.

Our first night in Huamachuco we stayed in an ok hotel called the Hotel Santa Fe but our room was right over the street and it was very loud. The second night we stayed in a wonderful hotel called Mama Wasi. 

Cajamarca 

Today was a rest day. We took our clothes to the laundry and studied where we want to go tomorrow. 

One sight I wanted to see was el Cuarto del Rescate, the Ransom Room. When Pizarro the Spanish Conquistador captured the Inca king the Spaniards agreed to release the king if his subjects filled a room with gold once and silver twice. The incas did this and the Spaniards still killed the king. Tradition is that this Inca room in Cajamarca is the Ransom Room. 

We also visited the cathedral and the archaeological museum. 


We are staying at the Costa Del Sol right next to the church above. At dinner last night we met a couple from Quincy, California which is not far from Reno. This afternoon we had drinks together and shared stories of our travel adventures. 

Leymebamba to Cajamarca

Today we rode 150 miles in two very comfortable modern buses. It took us 8 hours! We started at around 7000 feet elevation went up over a 12,000 foot pass then down to a river at 3,000 feet then up over a 9,000 foot pass down to a 5,000 foot town and then up over another 12,000 foot pass. Peru’s mountains have to be experienced to be believed!

The road was almost all just one lane. It was breathtaking  to appreciate how the driver dealt with tight switchbacks and on coming traffic. 



The bus spent almost all its time between ten and fifteen miles per hour.  I am ready to rest and spend two days in one place. 

Chachapoyas to Leymebamba

Tuesday morning we caught a collectivo to take us to the little town of Leymebamba. It is only 37 miles south of Chachapoyas but it took us two hours to get there winding our way through the Utcubamba River Canyon. We stayed at the absolutely wonderful  Kenti Tambo Lodge. We had a big open room up in the trees with a balcony.  The balcony has two comfy chairs and a hammock. 



There were lots of hummingbirds. 



Across the street from the lodge is the Museo Leymebamba which was built in 2010. They have exhibits about the inhabitants of this area over the years. The main purpose of the museum though is to house the more than 200 well preserved mummies that were found on a cliff overlooking Lagunas de las Condores near here. You can’t take pictures of the mummies but they are in a climate controlled room with a big window. 



We had dinner at the lodge. We started with appetizers next to a roaring fire. The meal was the best of the trip; Quinoa, sweet potatoes with a cinnamon glaze, roast goat and a bottle of wine. It was cozy and magical. 

Hiking to Gocta Waterfall

Today we hiked to Gocta waterfall. It is 2,529 feet tall and is one of the tallest waterfalls in the world.

To get to the trailhead we took a collectivo to the junction of the dirt road leading to the trailhead then a taxi from there. Our collectivo had a flat tire so Duke got to have a discussion with the other passengers while the driver changed the tire. One of the passengers asked Duke “Is Donald Trump a racist?” Duke said” I believe so.” Then I got to use the two phrases I’ve been practicing. “Él es una vergüenza nacional” and “Tenemos que volver para votar!”

The hike was Just over there miles esch way. The weather was very humid and I think I sweated about a quart. My hair was dripping wet at the end of the hike.  But the rain forest and the falls were worth it.



When we got back to Chachapoyas first priority was a shower. Then a steak and fries really hit the spot.