El Calafate, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile

Blog post for Friday, October 27, 2023

When I commented to our waitress in El Calafate that the wind was really blowing hard she said “That’s Patagonia!” We definitely had more Patagonia weather today.

Preparing our suitcases for the drive.

Before leaving El Calafate we mailed postcards and then used the last of our Argentine pesos to buy chocolate.

Mailing postcards
Buying chocolates
This and a big box of fruit drops cost us less than $20

The weather was quite pleasant in Calafate but as the day progressed the wind kept getting stronger. We drove for about three hours through a real gale and about 30 minutes of driving rain before we got to the Chilean-Argentine border.

Leaning into the wind
The border crossing

Luckily this time there were no tour buses in front of us and we crossed into Chile fairly quickly. Less than an hour later we were at our hotel in Puerto Natales.

Our room at Hotel Simple Patagonia.

After resting a bit we braved the wind to go up to the main building for some games.

Climbing from our room to the main building.
Rummikub

For dinner we went into a Puerto Natales and ate at JAU Natales Restaurant. We are kind of hooked on Patagonian lamb. That’s what three of us had. I had a crab stew. It was good but I kind of wish I had had the lamb.

The lamb cooking

Afterwards we had some chocolates in our room from our collection.

Our sweets collection

El Calafate Day 2

Blog post for Thursday, 26 October 2023

Today we drove 47 miles west from El Calafate to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier. The Glacier is massive. The height at the highest part of the glacier at its front on Lago Argentina is more than 70 meters. The width at the widest part we could see is more than 2.5 kilometers. There are extensive raised walkways all over the hill across from the face of the glacier. We walked for an hour or more all along them. The National park has done an excellent job with interpretive signs.

Interpretive sign overlooking Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier
From the parking lot
We got to see some calving.

Tonight is our last night in Argentina. Tomorrow we drive back into Chile. For dinner we decided to have one more Argentine meat meal. Tonight we had steak.

My steak

El Chaltén to El Calafate

Blog post for Wednesday, 25 October, 2023

Today we retraced our steps from El Chaltén back to El Calafate. The wind has been blowing incredibly hard the whole day and Mount Fitz Roy was hidden in the clouds.

Mount Fitz Roy is in the clouds somewhere
We put our suitcases in garbage bags to protect them from the dust
The wind was ferocious for the whole three hour drive

We played cards for a while when we got here and later went to dinner at the same place we ate last time we were in El Calafate, Parrilla Don Pichon. The power was out but they were running a generator for the essentials. This time each couple shared a lamb platter. It is what Bonnie and Brian had last time. Oh my was it devine! The best lamb I have ever eaten.

Because the power was out Don Pinchon didn’t look open.
One of our lamb platters.

El Chaltén Day 3

Blog post for Tuesday 24 October 2023

We are spending three nights in El Chaltén. It’s great to not have to move and it allowed us to do another hike today.

This morning we drove north from El Chaltén about 25 miles on a dirt road to the Glacier Huemul trail. Nearby you can also take a boat ride on Lago del Desierto. We decided to hike to the glacier lookout.

On the road to the trailhead
Lago del Desierto

They charge the equivalent of about three dollars to hike the glacier trail. there were quite a few people on the trail.

Entrance to the Huemul Glacier trail

The trail up to the glacier outlook started relatively flat but then it got quite steep. It was about a mile and a half to the top. The climb was absolutely worth it. When we got to what appeared to be the viewpoint we had a stunning view of the glacier.

The beginning of the trail
The Huemul Glacier

But just a little bit farther up the trail we’re surprised to find an ice covered lake below the glacier.

Huemul Glacier and the lake covered with ice below it.

Today Mount Fitz Roy has been mostly covered in clouds. In the picture below you can just see it sticking out of the clouds between the two branches.

Top of Fitz Roy through the clouds

For dinner we ate at a wonderful restaurant called La Cerveceria the service and all our food was absolutely wonderful!

Restaurant La Cerveceria
Duke had a bean and lamb stew
I had vegetable pasta with a mushroom cream sauce.

El Chaltén Day 2

Blog post for Monday, October 23, 2023

Today our plan was to hike the path up towards Mount Fitz Roy. We ate breakfast at 7:30 and were on the trail by 9:00.

Frost on our windshield
At the Fitz Roy trailhead

It was a perfect day for hiking. We didn’t go to the end of the trail but we hiked up just over 4 miles to some wonderful viewpoints.

Fitz Roy
El Chaltén from the trail
Our lunch spot 4 miles in, where we turned around
One of the glaciers we could see.
Lago Capri
Afterward we had ice cream

After almost 9 miles of hiking a nap was a necessity. For dinner we ate at a wonderful Italian Restaurant, La Mafiosa.

Brian’s Ossobucco ravioli
My asparagus tagliatelle