Granada to Antequera

We went to a bakery near our hotel for breakfast this morning. The pastries were truly works of art.

Choosing our breakfast pastries.
Breakfast. We are waiting for our coffee.

After breakfast we checked out of the hotel and drove about an hour and a half west to the town of Antequera. We are staying at the Parador in Antequera.

We got a map from the front desk with a suggested walking route to see the town. I also had some ideas of what I wanted to see from a YouTube video about Antequera made by Margaret of Moon in Spain. So we went out exploring and luckily the rain held off. First we walked by the Bullring.

The Antequera Bullring

Next we stopped at the Church of San Juan de Dios. The baroque interior was absolutely stunning.

Altar of San Juan de Dios Church
Entry of San Juan de Dios Church
The sacristy

The grocery store and bakery a little bit farther down the road was a perfect place for an afternoon snack. We felt it was important to sample the local lenten treat, Torrijas. The bakery lady explained that they are traditional to this area and eaten during lent. They start out a bit like American french toast but some are soaked in a sweet syrup or covered with cinnamon and sugar. We have seen them coated in chocolate and filled with custard. I can attest to the fact that Torrijas are delicious!

Trying Torrijas

We browsed the grocery store. The selection of hams and the wide variety of price always impresses me.

Jamon
Me perusing the hams

Gayle and I enjoyed visiting with two of Antequera’s famous sons.

Art without Time statue

In 1410 the Moors were defeated in Antequera and were forced to leave. They went to Granada. This statue commemorates them. It was erected in 2010. I found it really moving.

Homenaje a los Antiqiries
Homenaje a los Antiqiries

We walked back to the Parador, had our welcome drinks and played cards.

For dinner we walked back in to town and ate at a place called Restaurante Abrasador Bodegas Triana. Our waiter said their specialty is barbecue. Gayle and I had beef and Roger and Duke had pork. It was all delicious.

Restaurants Abrasador Bodegas Tirana
The pork
The beef
Pistachio cake and ice cream
I think this was bienmesabe, a sweet local desert made with almonds, egg yolks and honey.

Granada Day 2

Breakfasts in the Paradors we have visited have always been wonderful. This morning there was a fruit on the buffet that I had not seen before. It was cherimoya. The word is the same in Spanish and in English. It was sweet and a bit creamy.

Chirimollo
Part of the Parador breakfast buffet

After breakfast we checked out the parador garden.

Parador gardens

Roger and Gayle had a noon reservation for the Alhambra tour. We checked out of the Parador. Roger and Gayle went on their tour and Duke and I drove down into central Grenada and checked into our hotel. We are staying at the Melia. Our room is spacious and comfortable with a nice balcony.

Waiting for the Alhambra tour.

We woke up to what we thought was heavy fog this morning but it turns out that the air is thick with Saharan sand blown in ahead of the current storm. Everything is incredibly dirty and you can see the dirty air.

The view from our balcony.

I mailed postcards.

Mailing postcards

We met Roger and Gayle after their tour and walked with them down to the hotel

Duke and Washington Irving
Walking down from the Alhambra

The man helping us with our luggage said dirty air won’t be a problem tomorrow because it will be pouring rain!

For dinner I had wonderful octopus.

Octopus for dinner

Córdoba to Granada

This morning when we woke up it was pouring rain. After breakfast we left Córdoba and drove to Granada. We saw lots and lots of olive trees and it rained the whole way.

Olive trees in the rain

The Alhambra in Granada is one of the top sites in Spain. It is very special. Duke has been to Granada four times before and I have been here three times.

Every time we have visited we have thought how wonderful it would be to stay at the Granada Parador which is actually inside the Alhambra. We usually have coffee in the bar and daydream. But the Granada Parador is the most expensive hotel in the Parador system. It usually costs at least $400 a night to stay in the Granada Parador. But this time Duke found a special deal to stay here for one night for much less. It’s very exciting, something I’ve really wanted to do.

Driving up to the Alhambra
Inside the Granada Parador

We went out exploring, then had our welcome drinks and played cards.

Our room is on the left.
Puerta del Vino
Palacio Carlos V

Dinner in Spain is late. Our reservation at the Parador restaurant was for nine. Before dinner we went out to explore a bit more. Being able to have the Alhambra to yourself at night is one of the big advantages of staying here.

The Alhambra at night
Our Parador

For dinner I had veal, Duke had lamb stew, and Roger and Gayle had sea bass. it was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Veal
Sea Bass

Seville to Córdoba

This morning started out with an adventure.

About two weeks ago Duke asked the Parador where we were staying to call the Parador in the Spanish enclave of Ceuta in North Africa. He asked them to find out whether the land border between Ceuta and Morocco was open. A few months ago Morocco was allowing no foreigners to enter the country. Then they opened their border to people flying in. The Parador in Ceuta said the land border was not open and they had no idea when it would be open.

Our original itinerary had us taking the ferry across the Straight of Gibraltar and then crossing into Morocco at the land border Since that is no longer an option Duke had to change our plans. He changed the rental car to turn it in at Malaga airport and booked a flight from Malaga to Tangier. He got confirmations for all the changes.

When we arrived by taxi at the Eurocar rental office this morning in Seville the agent told Duke the reservation had been cancelled and it would cost about $500 more to rent the car we had reserved. After quite a bit of discussion, trying to call Eurocar customer service unsuccessfully, and searching for options from other companies we gave up on Eurocar and booked a car through Enterprise. Eventually two hours behind our original plan we were on the road out of Seville heading towards Córdoba

Duke getting the rental car. Finally!!

The drive was uneventful and beautiful with orange trees and olive trees in all the fields we passed. We checked into our Parador in Cordoba.

Checking in to the Parador
The terrace at the Parador of Córdoba

Next we drove into the town center to see the old Roman Bridge and visit the Mezquita-Catedral. The Córdoba Cathedral is built in the center of the former Mosque. The Mosque was massive. The Mosque-Cathedral is one of my favorite sights in Spain.

The Roman Bridge
Mezquita-Catedral
Exterior of the Córdoba Mezquita-Catedral

There didn’t seem to be any restaurants open near our Parador. The front desk did suggest a Chinese Restaurant but we decided to eat in the Parador bar. I had the ham sandwich and everyone else had the hamburgers.

3 hamburgers and a ham sandwich

Sevilla

Today, Saturday, is only the second time on this trip that we have spent two nights in one place. There is so much to see and do in Sevilla that it is easy to spend more than one day here. Saturday morning we had coffee, croissants and fresh orange juice at a cafe next to our hotel. I love the automatic orange juice making machines here. We watched our waiter load the machine with oranges and make our juice.

Automatic orange juice making machine.
Fresh squeezed orange juice.

After breakfast we went for a horse and buggy tour of the area around the cathedral and Plaza de España.

Is in front of Plaza de España
Gayle, Roger, Duke and Me.
Roger thanking the horse after our ride.

Next we went to the Archives of the Indies. It is where they have all the old documents related to Spains exploration and colonization. They have exhibits that change every few months. The displays were all in Spanish but still interesting. This time the exhibit was about the New Spain fleet and the the search for the galleon Nuestra Señora de Juncal which sank in the Gulf of Mexico in 1631.

In front of the Archives of the Indies
The exhibit about Spanish exploration.

From the archives we found a place to have coffee.

Coffee Break

Each coffee packet has a saying on it. So we took pictures with our packets.

Duke’s says “Say what you want but you can’t deny I’m very sweet.”

We were revitalized so we did the Rick Steve’s walking tour of Seville. We are here at a very good time. Al the orange trees are blooming and the air is full of the smell of orange blossoms. It’s wonderful.

In Barrio Santa Cruz

We had a tasty lunch in a small square, outside, under the orange trees.

Lunch under the orange trees

We shared tapas.

Anchovies
Roasted peppers

After playing cards for a while by the hotel pool, we decided to take a walk through the newer shopping district of Sevilla. When we got over to Avenida de la Constitución, just past the cathedral we discovered a big parade of mainly Peruvian and Bolivian dancers. they wore wonderful, colorful costumes. The dancing was fast, exuberant and lots of fun to watch.

Dancer
Dancers singing
Dancers with cymbals on their shoes
Cymbal shoes
Dancers

For dinner we went to a tapas restaurant with bull heads on the walls. Each head had a plaque about the famous bull.

Bulls head restaurant. It’s real name is Bar Catedral Sevilla
Stuffed mushrooms and eggplants and cheese.