Category: Peru Ecuador 2016

Huamachuco to Chimbote – Sunday, October 2, 2016

Sunday morning we left Huamachuco and headed towards the coast. Huamachuco is at an altitude of about 10,000 feet. Our road to Trujillo went up to well over 12,000 feet before descending to sea level. 

Sunday is a  busy travel day. We arrived in Trujillo about 1:30. The next bus to Chimbote where we planned to spend the night was soldout so Duke bought us tickets on the 6:20 bus. This gave us a chance to walk about Trujillo a bit and have some lunch. 

We got to our hotel in Chimbote about 9:30 last night. This morning we headed first to the bus station so that Duke could buy us tickets for tomorrow. 


Then we took a taxi to the main square. I think one of the results of my cold is that now I have an ear infection. I’m sure that the enormous altitude change yesterday didn’t help either. Although more oxygen is certainly a good thing!

We went to the pharmacy and talked to a pharmacist She gave me antibiotics. After looking at my personal medical records I realized that she gave me the same drug that I received in Reno when I had an ear infection last Spring. Here the drugs cost me about $15.  


We walked back to our hotel. Who knew there was a Moulin Rouge outside of Paris!!


Chimbote is a port town. There are a huge number of boats in the fishing fleet. 

We are staying at the Hotel Brilia here in Chimbote. 

Cajamarca to Huamachuco

Friday we left Cajamarca and took a bus to Cajabamba. The bus was full and very warm. It was about a three hour ride. From Cajabamba we took a very full collectivo over a bumpy road to Huamachuco, about a 90 minute ride. 

I’ve picked up a head cold so Saturday I pretty much rested all day in our hotel room. 

Something I have seen several times in the past few days is women walking down the street knitting! I’ve also seen a couple of women spinning wool into yarn while walking!!

Probably the most memorable thing about Huamachuco is the topiary in the main square.

Our first night in Huamachuco we stayed in an ok hotel called the Hotel Santa Fe but our room was right over the street and it was very loud. The second night we stayed in a wonderful hotel called Mama Wasi. 

Cajamarca 

Today was a rest day. We took our clothes to the laundry and studied where we want to go tomorrow. 

One sight I wanted to see was el Cuarto del Rescate, the Ransom Room. When Pizarro the Spanish Conquistador captured the Inca king the Spaniards agreed to release the king if his subjects filled a room with gold once and silver twice. The incas did this and the Spaniards still killed the king. Tradition is that this Inca room in Cajamarca is the Ransom Room. 

We also visited the cathedral and the archaeological museum. 


We are staying at the Costa Del Sol right next to the church above. At dinner last night we met a couple from Quincy, California which is not far from Reno. This afternoon we had drinks together and shared stories of our travel adventures. 

Leymebamba to Cajamarca

Today we rode 150 miles in two very comfortable modern buses. It took us 8 hours! We started at around 7000 feet elevation went up over a 12,000 foot pass then down to a river at 3,000 feet then up over a 9,000 foot pass down to a 5,000 foot town and then up over another 12,000 foot pass. Peru’s mountains have to be experienced to be believed!

The road was almost all just one lane. It was breathtaking  to appreciate how the driver dealt with tight switchbacks and on coming traffic. 



The bus spent almost all its time between ten and fifteen miles per hour.  I am ready to rest and spend two days in one place. 

Chachapoyas to Leymebamba

Tuesday morning we caught a collectivo to take us to the little town of Leymebamba. It is only 37 miles south of Chachapoyas but it took us two hours to get there winding our way through the Utcubamba River Canyon. We stayed at the absolutely wonderful  Kenti Tambo Lodge. We had a big open room up in the trees with a balcony.  The balcony has two comfy chairs and a hammock. 



There were lots of hummingbirds. 



Across the street from the lodge is the Museo Leymebamba which was built in 2010. They have exhibits about the inhabitants of this area over the years. The main purpose of the museum though is to house the more than 200 well preserved mummies that were found on a cliff overlooking Lagunas de las Condores near here. You can’t take pictures of the mummies but they are in a climate controlled room with a big window. 



We had dinner at the lodge. We started with appetizers next to a roaring fire. The meal was the best of the trip; Quinoa, sweet potatoes with a cinnamon glaze, roast goat and a bottle of wine. It was cozy and magical.