Buenos Aires Day 2

We had a wonderful day. Both of us were exhausted last night and slept like logs. When we finally woke up this morning we were rested and ready to go. We went to El Petit Colón near our hotel for breakfast. It is a famous cafe, named El Petit Colón because it is very close to the Buenos Aires Opera house, El Teatro Colón.

We ordered the egg breakfast for two and, oh my what a feast! It was fabulous and we didn’t need to eat again until dinner.

Breakfast at El petit Colon
The ambiance is elegant
All the food was fresh and yummy

Today was a primarily a rest day, but we got a lot done. We changed more money and bought tickets for a tango show tomorrow night. We straightened out our tickets for 4 shows we want to go to when we return to Buenos Aires in 6 weeks. Duke tried to buy the tickets before we left home but because of credit card challenges we weren’t sure if we had bought the tickets or not. Now we have all 4 sets of tickets.

For dinner we took a taxi to the Palermo district and had fabulous Argentine beef at a top rated restaurant, Calder del Soho. Then we walked to a nearby bookstore/ restaurant that also has a small Jazz Venue. The place is called Borges 1975. We saw 5 bass players perform. They were so much fun to listen too and the music was great. They seemed to be having so much fun. There were probably less than 20 people in attendance and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We came out smiling and took an Uber back to our hotel.

Steak at Calder del SoHo.
Concert with 5 basses
The library we walked through to get to the Jazz room.

Reno to Buenos Aires

We are on the road again! We returned from our U.S. road trip just three weeks ago and now we are off on a six week trip to Argentina. If you would like to see our complete itinerary just click on Itinerary in the menu above.

Monday morning our friend, Ray gave us a ride to the airport in Reno. We flew to Denver and then took a second flight to Houston. There were thunderstorms and wind around Denver so our departure was delayed. As we approached Houston we knew that it was only about 30 minutes until our plane to Buenos Aires left and our gate was about half a mile away. Then they aborted our approach because the plane ahead of us was still on the runway so we had to go around and try again.

At that point we assumed we would miss our plane. But just before we landed there was an announcement that they were going to delay the departure of the Buenos Aires flight because there were so many people on our flight from Denver who were going to Buenos Aires.

We landed, they let about 50 of us with tight connections off first, and then we ran! We made it and so did our suitcases.

A mariachi band in Denver AirPort
Bad weather as we took off. It was quite bumpy.

We landed here in Buenos Aires at 8:13 then took an Uber for the hour ride to our hotel in central Buenos Aires.

Neither of us slept much on the plane so when we got to our room we immediately slept for about 3 hours then went out to change some U.S. dollars to Argentine Pesos and to get some afternoon coffee.

That’s Duke talking to the money changer.
Afternoon coffee
We made it!
14 10,000 peso bills = $100 US

We decided to walk to the Jazz club where we had dinner. On the way Duke totally surprised me by taking us into one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. El Ateneo is in an old theater and is truly stunning. I was so focused on getting to dinner that I tried to walk right through it so that I wouldn’t delay us. In reality I could have browsed for an hour. But I didn’t. But we did browse a bit.

El Ateneo is on all the lists of most beautiful bookstores in the world
The large music and children’s section is downstairs. They have a big collection of old LPs and CDs.

Dinner and the show were great at Jazz Voyeur. I was so tired I dozed off a few times during the show but even so I thoroughly enjoyed the show.

Steak dinner
The show

El Calafate Day 2

Blog post for Thursday, 26 October 2023

Today we drove 47 miles west from El Calafate to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier. The Glacier is massive. The height at the highest part of the glacier at its front on Lago Argentina is more than 70 meters. The width at the widest part we could see is more than 2.5 kilometers. There are extensive raised walkways all over the hill across from the face of the glacier. We walked for an hour or more all along them. The National park has done an excellent job with interpretive signs.

Interpretive sign overlooking Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier
From the parking lot
We got to see some calving.

Tonight is our last night in Argentina. Tomorrow we drive back into Chile. For dinner we decided to have one more Argentine meat meal. Tonight we had steak.

My steak

El Chaltén to El Calafate

Blog post for Wednesday, 25 October, 2023

Today we retraced our steps from El Chaltén back to El Calafate. The wind has been blowing incredibly hard the whole day and Mount Fitz Roy was hidden in the clouds.

Mount Fitz Roy is in the clouds somewhere
We put our suitcases in garbage bags to protect them from the dust
The wind was ferocious for the whole three hour drive

We played cards for a while when we got here and later went to dinner at the same place we ate last time we were in El Calafate, Parrilla Don Pichon. The power was out but they were running a generator for the essentials. This time each couple shared a lamb platter. It is what Bonnie and Brian had last time. Oh my was it devine! The best lamb I have ever eaten.

Because the power was out Don Pinchon didn’t look open.
One of our lamb platters.

El Chaltén Day 3

Blog post for Tuesday 24 October 2023

We are spending three nights in El Chaltén. It’s great to not have to move and it allowed us to do another hike today.

This morning we drove north from El Chaltén about 25 miles on a dirt road to the Glacier Huemul trail. Nearby you can also take a boat ride on Lago del Desierto. We decided to hike to the glacier lookout.

On the road to the trailhead
Lago del Desierto

They charge the equivalent of about three dollars to hike the glacier trail. there were quite a few people on the trail.

Entrance to the Huemul Glacier trail

The trail up to the glacier outlook started relatively flat but then it got quite steep. It was about a mile and a half to the top. The climb was absolutely worth it. When we got to what appeared to be the viewpoint we had a stunning view of the glacier.

The beginning of the trail
The Huemul Glacier

But just a little bit farther up the trail we’re surprised to find an ice covered lake below the glacier.

Huemul Glacier and the lake covered with ice below it.

Today Mount Fitz Roy has been mostly covered in clouds. In the picture below you can just see it sticking out of the clouds between the two branches.

Top of Fitz Roy through the clouds

For dinner we ate at a wonderful restaurant called La Cerveceria the service and all our food was absolutely wonderful!

Restaurant La Cerveceria
Duke had a bean and lamb stew
I had vegetable pasta with a mushroom cream sauce.