El Chaltén Day 3

Blog post for Tuesday 24 October 2023

We are spending three nights in El Chaltén. It’s great to not have to move and it allowed us to do another hike today.

This morning we drove north from El Chaltén about 25 miles on a dirt road to the Glacier Huemul trail. Nearby you can also take a boat ride on Lago del Desierto. We decided to hike to the glacier lookout.

On the road to the trailhead
Lago del Desierto

They charge the equivalent of about three dollars to hike the glacier trail. there were quite a few people on the trail.

Entrance to the Huemul Glacier trail

The trail up to the glacier outlook started relatively flat but then it got quite steep. It was about a mile and a half to the top. The climb was absolutely worth it. When we got to what appeared to be the viewpoint we had a stunning view of the glacier.

The beginning of the trail
The Huemul Glacier

But just a little bit farther up the trail we’re surprised to find an ice covered lake below the glacier.

Huemul Glacier and the lake covered with ice below it.

Today Mount Fitz Roy has been mostly covered in clouds. In the picture below you can just see it sticking out of the clouds between the two branches.

Top of Fitz Roy through the clouds

For dinner we ate at a wonderful restaurant called La Cerveceria the service and all our food was absolutely wonderful!

Restaurant La Cerveceria
Duke had a bean and lamb stew
I had vegetable pasta with a mushroom cream sauce.

El Chaltén Day 2

Blog post for Monday, October 23, 2023

Today our plan was to hike the path up towards Mount Fitz Roy. We ate breakfast at 7:30 and were on the trail by 9:00.

Frost on our windshield
At the Fitz Roy trailhead

It was a perfect day for hiking. We didn’t go to the end of the trail but we hiked up just over 4 miles to some wonderful viewpoints.

Fitz Roy
El Chaltén from the trail
Our lunch spot 4 miles in, where we turned around
One of the glaciers we could see.
Lago Capri
Afterward we had ice cream

After almost 9 miles of hiking a nap was a necessity. For dinner we ate at a wonderful Italian Restaurant, La Mafiosa.

Brian’s Ossobucco ravioli
My asparagus tagliatelle

El Calafate to El Chaltén

Blog post for Sunday, October 22 2023

After breakfast this morning in El Calafate we walked down to the shore of Lago Argentina. It is the largest fresh water lake in Argentina with a maximum length of 75 miles and width of 25 miles. It is fed by the glaciers in the mountains to the west.

Along the shore of the lake we were surprised to se flamingos

Flamingos
More flamingos

When we got back to the hotel we checked out. Today we drove around Lago Argentina then north and around the next large lake, Lago Viedma. We went up into the mountains to the west to the small town of El Chaltén at the base of Mount Fitz Roy in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.

Entering Argentina’s Glaciers National Park
The big peak is Mount Fitz Roy

We are very lucky to have absolutely perfect weather. The ranger at the visitor center said it is not uncommon for the peaks to be hidden in clouds.

The Ranger in the visitor center

El Chaltén is at an elevation of 1,345 feet and Fitz Roy has an elevation of 11,171 feet. The ice mass in these mountains is the Patagonia Ice Field. It is the third largest in the world after the Arctic and Antarctic ice fields. As you can see in this satellite image that was in the visitor center the ice field stretches from Argentina, where we are, across Chile to the Pacific and down the spine of Patagonia for hundreds of miles. We are staying at the west end of the northern of the two big lakes in the picture below.

North and South Patagonia Ice Cap satellite image

After checking into our hotel, El Chaltén Suites we hiked to Mirador de Los Condores overlooking the town and the mountains.

On the trail to the Condor Viewpoint
The view from the top

Torres del Paine, Chile to El Calafate, Argentina

Blog post for Saturday, October 21 2023

This morning after breakfast by the fire in the dining hall at Estancia dos Elianas we set out to explore a bit of Torres del Paine National Park. It was a very windy day but that meant we had a excellent visibility.

Torres del Paine
Waterfall in Torres del Paine National Park

Next we headed over the border into Argentina. Unfortunately we were behind a tour bus so there was a long line at customs and immigration. It took us an hour to get our Chilean exit stamp. There was no line to get into Argentina.

Waiting for the exit stamp at the Chile Argentine border. Notice the Gaucho!

The drive to Calafate where we spent the night was through miles and miles of pampas. We saw sheep, rheas and guanacos and not much else.

Guanaco
A Rhea

In Calafate we are staying at Design Suites Calafate overlooking Lago Argentina. We went to a steak house called Don Pichon for dinner. Nobody does meat like the Argentineians. Bonnie and Brian had a lamb platter for two and Duke and I had a barbecue platter.

Our barbecue platter
Brian and Bonnie’s lamb

Punta Arenas to Torres del Paine

Blog post for Friday, October 20 2023

We did a lot today. We had breakfast at the hotel in Punta Arenas. About 9:30 we walked to the bus station and caught a bus to Puerto Natales. it was about a three hour ride through relatively flat grasslands. We saw guanacos and Duke saw rheas.

Bus station in Punta Arenas

In Puerto Natales we took a taxi to the rental car office. Our car wasn’t quite ready so we walked down the street and had lunch at a wonderful cozy restaurant called El Bote.

Restaurants El Bote
Bonnie and I each had seafood stew

When we returned to the rental car office our rental truck was ready and we loaded up. We stopped at a grocery store and got picnic food, wine, and beer.

Loading up our truck

Then we drove about an hour north to Torres del Paine. We are staying at a ranch or Estancia that is set in the middle of a vast valley. We can’t see any other signs of habiatation in any direction.

Our accommodations

We played cards and later ate dinner in a building separate from the cabin we are staying in. I loved the big fire pit in the room.

The dining room