Category: Travel

Tonight we are back in San Cristobal de Las Casas where we left our car. I just looked at the weather and it is 90 in Reno and 61 here in San Cristobal!

This morning in Antigua the van picked us up at 5:30. It was full but most of the people were going to Lake Atitlan. After they all got off there were just four of us. So it was a very comfortable ride. The weather has been cool here in the mountains but at our rest stop it was still dry and they had charcoal fires going in the restaurant. The hot coffee hit the spot.

They have had a lot of rain and the main road was washed out. We had to take a dirt road detour. The bus company was paying some of the villagers to add gravel to the road on the muddy hills. These Guatemalans are resourceful!!

When we got back on the highway the sun was shining through and it looked like a promising day. But it was raining when we got to the Mexican border and the rain just kept getting harder

We arrived in San Cristobal de las Casas at about 6 pm to torrential rains. We started walking to our hotel in the rain. Eventually we were soaked and still not sure where the hotel was so we got a cab. I need to either get a cover for my suitcase or get a new waterproof suitcase!! Pretty much everything is wet! At least we are in a dry hotel room 🙂

This morning we were actually able to see one of the three volcanoes that surrounds Antigua. We will have to come back here in the dry season to see the other two.

Elizabeth Bell owns and operates a local Antiguan tour company. Her father worked for Sunset magazine and they lived in Palo Alto California. She moved to Antigua with her family in 1976 when she was 14. She has lived here ever since, is now a Guatemalan citizen and is a local scholar of Antigua history. She leads walking tours of Antigua and we and four other people went on her tour this morning. It was fantastic! She talked about the government, city politics and mostly the history of Antigua and it’s buildings and how they have been preserved and restored.

We visited the city hall, the cathedral, the jade museum and the Santa Domingo museum. She told us all about the restoration and how Antigua has changed over the past 40 years. It was fascinating.

After the tour we explode the Santa Domingo museum some more. It is partly a hotel now and the cathedral ruin is an outdoor church that is used for weddings.

We also went to the chocolate museum and some of the Mayan jade stores where we did some shopping 🙂

We did some shopping at a traditional candy store too.

For dinner we went back to the Casa Escobar Steak House where we ate the first night. Again the steak was tender and tasty, the service was perfect, the wine was good and this time we topped off our meal with Cream Brûlée and coffee. Perfection!

I loved Antigua and could definitely come back again.

Currently we are in Antigua. It is the farthest place south and the farthest place east on our trip.

Yesterday we took a tour of a coffee farm. We watched ladies grafting robust variety roots to arabica seedlings, We watched them being planted, We picked a ripe red bean, and we learned all about how the coffee is processed. Afterwards we were given a cup of espresso to taste and we bought a pound of the five star coffee to take home. The picture of us on the patio is where they sun dry the coffee. We were the only ones on the tour. It was beautiful and fascinating.

The coffee farm is very close to town. They also offer early morning bird walks which I think would be fun. After the tour they dropped us off near the central square.

We booked a van ride for Saturday back to San Cristobal de las Casas in Mexico where we left our car. We had thought we might break the trip into two days but decided to do it on one big push. They pick us up at 5:30 am and say it will take 12 hours!

Yesterday afternoon we visited the ruins and museum of Las Capuchinas. It was started in 1736 by nuns from Madrid and badly damaged by an earthquake in 1773 and then abandoned.

We ate dinner last night overlooking a lovely garden courtyard. Afterwards on the dance floor they had masked costumed men doing a dance to marimba music.

This morning a shared van picked us ip in Panajachel on Lake Atitl�n. The van drove us about two hours southeast to Antigua.

Antigua is a beautiful former colonial town that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The van dropped us off at our hotel and then we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Antigua. It has lots of historic buildings and ruins from the many big earthquakes that have occurred here. We toured a textiles museum and checked out dinner places.

We capped off the day with a wonderful steak dinner. At a restaurant not too far from the hotel.

Today is day 17 of our Mexico and Guatemala adventure. We are currently on Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. The last three nights we stayed at the wonderful isolated La Casa del Mundo.

This morning after a scramble, potatoes, whole grain toast and coffee we flagged down the boat taxi and returned to Panajachel where we are staying tonight.

We spent the day exploring the town which seems to have more Anglos, bars and souvenirs ships than anywhere we’ve been. Although it rained and was gray all day at least the rain was intermittent and we were able to get quite a bit of walking in.

Tomorrow we will catch a shuttle to Antigua. The first picture below is Duke on the street in Panajachel and the second is of the very muddy river dumping into the lake.