Porto to Amares

Our hotel in Porto was right on the river. It consisted of two buildings, a palace and a factory built by one of the former owners of the palace. Of course they are completely renovated now.

The palace
The view from our room

Since we were staying in Porto it seemed appropriate to visit one of the many Port wine cellars near where we were staying. The hotel made us a reservation at Graham’s Port Wine Cellar. It was only a few miles from the hotel but finding it turned out to be a bit of an adventure. Eventually we made it and enjoyed a tour and tasting.

Vats for port wine
Aging port wine
Port pairings

Duke is not really a fan of port. It is not my favorite either but I thought these ports were wonderful.

From Porto we drove north to the Pausada Mosteiro de Amores. It is a hotel in a wonderful old Monestary.

Pausada Mosteiro de Amares

We played bridge.

Bridge by the fire.

Then we had dinner in the Pausada restaurant.

Sea Bass
Pork, potatoes, and chestnuts

Viseu to Porto

After breakfast Thursday morning Duke talked to the helpful front desk staff at the Pausada in Viseu about what we should see in the area. They suggested the old village of Santar which is in the middle of a transformation to become “The Garden Village”. The owners of one of the local grand houses have worked with other garden owners in the village and with a famous landscape architect to connect their gardens and create marvelous spaces. We took a tour and saw one of the wonderful old houses and all 5 public gardens. Even though they are undoubtedly more beautiful at other times of the year when there would be more color, the gardens were still really beautiful.

On the garden tour
The pond that is used as a source of irrigation water.

The owners are also growing grapes and have created a small winery in the former stables

In the winery
The former stables

Next we got on the road to Porto. We stopped at a grocery store and bought picnic supplies. We found a lovely spot to picnic. It is interesting that a lot of people are burning wood, probably for heat. The smoke in the air was pretty thick.

At the grocery store
Picnic lunch

The short route to Porto would have been just over an hour but of course we took the ‘scenic route’. it turned about to be a bit longer than we might have liked but the drive through the mountains was certainly scenic!

The Portuguese mountains
Our mountain road

I navigated our way to what I thought was the location of our hotel in central Porto. There was lots of traffic but no hotel! After much consulting from the whole team we figured out that in Google maps Hotél Pestana Palácio do Freixo is a 30 minute drive from Pestana Palácio do Freixo. Argh!! We finally got to the hotel in Portu on the Duoro River about six.

The view from our room.

Dinner in the hotel restaurant was fabulous. Our waiter was concerned that Linda might not like the tripe but she said it was very good.

Octopus
Steak

Lisbon to Viseu

This morning after breakfast we took a one hour Tuk-tuk tour of central Lisbon.

Duke negotiating with the Tuk-tuk driver
On our Tuk-tuk tour.

We made several stops. Learned about Lisbon history and the earthquake, fire and tsunami that destroyed the city in 1755, The whole tour was a lot of fun.

View of Lisbon
After our tour

We packed up, checked out then played a few hands of bridge until it was time to pick up our rental car.

Playing bridge before leaving Lisbon

We picked up our rental car and drove north about three hours to Viseu. We will have this rental car for 11 days. Watch for a video review from Duke before we turn the car in.

Our rental car

We stayed in Viseu at this Pausada once before on 13 February 2016. The building is a former hospital. The central court is three stories tall and surrounded by colonnades. Duke and I had gin and tonics in the central court yard then the four of us finished our bridge game. Linda and I won!

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Pausada of Viseu
Gin an Tonics in the Court Yard

We had an excellent dinner in the hotel restaurant..

Octopus
Sea bass

Lisbon

This morning we had a wonderful breakfast at our hotel. We are staying at the Pestano Pousada Lisboa. It is right on Praça do Comércio, the central square.

Breakfast

After breakfast we took the trolley to Belem where we saw the Monument to the Discoveries.

On the trolley
Monument to the Discoveries
Monument to the Discoveries

We visited the cathedral of Jerónimos Monastery. One little thing I like about churches is that they give me an opportunity to sit!

cathedral of Jerónimos Monastery.

We saw Vasco da Gama’s tomb. He found the sea route to India around the southern tip of Africa.

Vasco Da Gama’s tomb

We had to make a stop at Pastéis de Belém to have the Portuguese famous custard tarts. The story is that the tarts were made here first. The monks in the monestary used egg whites to starch their laundry. They had lots of leftover egg yolks so they used them to make the tarts. The concierge in our hotel said there are better tarts elsewhere but agreed that tourists have to stop at Pastéis de Belém at least once. I thought my tart was flakey, eggy and yummy!

Pastéis de Belém
Custard tarts

By this time jet lag was hitting so we took the trolley back to the hotel. I had an excellent nap. Later we walked around the square some then stopped for a snack.

Mid afternoon snack

Apparently on Wednesday there will be a big Holland versus Portugal football match here. So while we ate we were treated to duelling songs. Although we couldn’t understand them I assume they were national football songs.

Duelling songs

Lots of people including us savored the sunset from the riverfront.

Sunset over the Tagus River

For dinner we went to Restaurant 1° de Maio which was recommended by Linda’s sister Elizabeth. Our waiter translated the menu and entertained us with jokes. We had a wonderful meal.

Tuna
Oso de Bucco

All in all it was a perfect first day.

San Francisco to Lisbon

We are starting another travel adventure. Our first stop is Lisbon.

Sunday afternoon Allison drove Ray, Linda, Duke and I from her house in Walnut Creek to San Francisco airport for our flight to Lisbon. We waited in line for an hour and then when we finally got to the checkin counter the British Airlines agent said “Your flight is tomorrow”. Talk about disconcerting! Our reservation was definitely for Sunday but the flight from London to Lisbon had been cancelled and American Airlines (The trip was booked through them) had unilaterally rebooked us twenty four hours later.

Duke at the check in counter in San Francisco

Eventually British Airlines straightened things out and rebooked us to fly San Francisco to London to Porto to Lisbon. So then we all had to submit new Covid passenger locator forms. Eventually two hours after arriving at the airport we were checked in and ready to go through security.

The new itinerary meant we had to wait six hours in London for our connection. We were late into Porto and had a relatively short connection there. We arrived in Lisbon eight hours later than originally planned but we made it!! After more than 24 hours of travel!

Waiting in London

Our hotel, Pousada Lisboa is right on the main square.

Duke putting his feet up in our hotel room in Lisbon.
The main square in Lisbon