Museo Franz Mayer and Museo del Estanquillo – Mexico City Day 8

We could see the Zocalo and the Cathedral from our table at breakfast this morning

The Cathedral from breakfast

Today we visited the Museo de Franz Mayer. The museum houses the collection of Fran’s Mayer, a German born financier. It isn’t a big museum but there were three exhibits that made it special.

First was a temporary exhibit done in collaboration with the Getty museum, exploring different narratives of the conquest of Mexico. Most documents paint the conquistadors as heroic but there are other contemporaneous documents that were critical of the conquest. Examples of both were displayed.

A 1534 map of Tenochtitlan by Herman Cortés
A book from 1514 about the Cruelties of the Mexican conquest

I loved the Franz Mayer library.

The library

In a small adjacent room they had a special scanner and a woman who was scanning an old book.

Scanning old books

There was also an exhibit about the trade between the Philippines and Mexico between 1565 and 1815. It was something I knew nothing about. It was fascinating.

The slide says “Between 1565 and 1815, the longest and most enduring trade route in history took place: it crossed the Pacific Ocean and connected the kingdom of New Spain [today Mexico] with the Philippine Islands. Both territories belonged to the Hispanic Empire.”
More of the Franz Mayer collection

Next we went to the Museo de Estanquillo. The exhibit was about clothing and style through the years in Mexico

It has been interesting to a big team of people set up a stage and chairs in the Zocalo outside our window. Apparently it is for some kind of big awards ceremony which we think will be tomorrow. We figured that there are about 20,000 chairs.

We ate dinner at a restaurant at the top of the Gran Hotel.

The view at dinner
The mescalitas were huge!

Belles Artes and Artisan’s Market – Mexico City Day 7

This morning we enjoyed a marvelous breakfast buffet in the rooftop restaurant at our hotel.

Breakfast spot
Breakfast buffet

After breakfast we walked to the Palácio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts). We looked through the art exhibits and took an architecture and history tour. The construction of the building was interrupted by the Mexican revolution (1910-1920). As a result the architecture of the exterior is classical and the interior is beautiful Art Deco.

Palácio de Belles Artes
Interior of Belles Artes
Scale model of the building

Next we visited the nearby Artisanal Market. It was fun to browse. We bought a few souvenirs.

Picking out napkins in the market

For dinner we went to Café De Tacuba. We had the best meal of the trip. They serve authentic Mexican regional food. It was excellent. And a wonderful quintet sang us a love song!

Dinner at Café De Tacuba
We shared a mixed grill
The singers serenading another couple

Polanco to Historic Center – Mexico City Day 6

Today we checked out of our hotel in Polanco and moved to a hotel in the historic Center. Our room wasn’t ready when we arrived so we went out for a walk.

We went into the cathedral and watched part of a mass.
We walked around the ruins of the Templo Mayor. It was first built around 1325 and then destroyed by the Spanish to build the cathedral.

Then we had lunch at our hotel. Snacks (sandwiches, beer, wine, etc.) are included in the price of our room.

Lunch

We were able to get into our room by 2:00. We have a fantastic view of the Zócalo with the cathedral on the north side and the Palácio Nacional on the east side. Behind the Palácio Nacional we can see the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuarl volcanoes. When Duke lived in Mexico City in 1981-2 he says he never saw the volcanoes because the smog was so bad.

The view of the Zocalo from our room.
The cathedral and zocalo from our room as the sun was going down
Volcanoes in the distance

We ate dinner at a rooftop restaurant not far from our hotel.

The cathedral at night

Paseo de La Reforma – Mexico City Day 5

On Sundays, Reforma, the wide avenue that crosses central Mexico City, is closed to car traffic. So, Sunday morning we walked along a traffic free Reforma enjoying the people, the sites and the weather.

We stopped briefly at the Tamayo museum of contemporary art.

Inside the Tamayo
Walking along Reforma
Fountain of Diana the Hunter

We passed the Sheraton where we stayed on our first trip to Mexico City together back in 2011. Back then, the American embassy was next door to the Sheraton. Recently the embassy has been moved several miles away.

That’s the Sheraton on the left. The short building to the right is the former embassy.

When we were here on a Sunday morning back in 2011 the Mexico City Marathon was going on.

A picture from near the same spot in 2011. The former embassy is in the background.

After about three miles we stopped, had coffee, and caught an Uber back to the hotel..

Coffee and tres leches cake

For dinner we went to another restaurant Duke booked before the trip, Taboo.

We shared the salad.
We also shared the catch of the day
Inside Taboo

Castle of Chapultepec and Ballet Folklórico – Mexico City Day 4

Saturday was a big walking day for us. According to my watch we walked more than ten miles!

We started out by walking through Chapultepec park to Chapultepec Castle. Along the way we saw an area of the park that is reserved for people over 60. They had a senior center with lots of activities (everything from yoga to pickle ball, to English classes to dominos) and nice wide walking paths. Of course we got to go in!

Area of the park reserved for people over 60
In the senior garden

Castillo de Chapultepec and Historical Museum overlook Chapultepec Park. The castle was built for Spanish royalty and has been used as a military college and a presidential residence.

Walking up the hill to the castle
On the terrace
Chapultepec Castle
Interior garden

After we were done with our visit to the castle we walked back to the area of our hotel for lunch. But first, we stopped at the Audiorama. It is built around a small cave at the base of the Castle hill. It was a peaceful garden with books to read and music playing.

Resting in the Audiorama

Also on the way to lunch we walked through the botanical garden.

Botanical garden
At Karisma where we ate dinner Friday night. It was so good that we came back for lunch.
Duke’s lunch tacos

After napping at the hotel we walked back to Chapultepec Castle to see the Ballet Folklórico. They had set up chairs around a stage on the terrace. It was a beautiful night and it was a great show.

We had great seats in the second row.
Ballet Folklórico