Madrid day 2

Today we wanted to get a relatively early start so we could have breakfast and then arrive at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum soon after they opened at 10.

Breakfast at Oskar Cafetería

The Thyssen Museum was wonderful. It took us about two and a half hours to walk through their collection and we moved fairly quickly. I took a lot of pictures. These are just a few of them.

This painting, by Henry Lewis, painted in 1847 is of the falls of Saint Anthony on the Upper Mississippi. We looked the falls up and they are in Minneapolis and look nothing like this now.
For many years this portrait was identified as George Washington’s cook and was attributed to Gilbert Stuart. Recent studies point to the painter being of the circle of Sir Joshua Reynolds and the subject being a man from Dominica.
A Renoir painting called Wheatfield painted in 1879

From the museum we walked back to the hotel with a stop for coffee on the way. Back at the hotel we played a few more rounds of cards and rested for a bit.

On the way to dinner we walked through the Mercado de San Míguel.

Mercado de San Míguel

We ate dinner at a restaurant called Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas. The restaurant is in the cellars under the Plaza Mayor. It’s been there since 1949. We each had roasted suckling pig with rice. It was delicious. We had a great conversation with the people at the table next to us. It was a man from Texas, a woman and her son from Belgium and an older woman from Morelia, Mexico.

Dinner
Cochinillo

Brian and JoAnn fly home tomorrow morning. So this ends a phase of our trip. We have had so much fun traveling with them. We are already strategizing about our next trip together.

As I sit in our room writing this, the moon is coming up over Madrid and we have great view of it from our window.

Moon over Madrid

!

Salamanca to Madrid

Our rental car had to be returned today, in Madrid, by 12:30. So we had a relatively early breakfast in Salamanca and were on the road out of town by 9:00. Duke and I had been on Google street view figuring out how to get directly to the parking garage where we needed to return the rental car. We didn’t want to stray into the central Madrid congestion zone where we would have been charged a toll.

So it was a bit of a shock to be met with this sign when we got to the parking garage entrance.

Luckily we were able to fairly easily find another entrance and return the car. It was raining outside but the hotel wasn’t far away.

Coming out of the parking garage. Our hotel is in the middle in the background.

Our rooms at Barceló Torre de Madrid weren’t ready so we had our welcome drinks and played cards for about an hour.

Welcome drinks and cards

When Brian and JoAnn’s room was ready we moved our bags into their room then went to see the Royal Palace of Madrid. We purchased tickets and shared an audio guide. It’s an enormous, beautiful and opulent palace still used for official events. I very much enjoyed our visit even though it was quite crowded.

Royal Palace of Madrid
The state dining room
The throne room.

For dinner we went to a nearby Basque restaurant, Dudua Palácio

Dinner at Dudua Palácio Restaurante

Benavente to Salamanca

Today we drove about an hour and a half south to Salamanca where we are staying in the last Parador we will stay in with Brian and Jo Ann on this trip.

The front of the Parador is nice
But the view from the lobby is amazing.

After we checked in we walked into the historic center. To get there we walked over Salamancas Roman bridge. The bridge is 577 feet long and originally opened in the first century.

The Puente Romana.
Walking across the Roman Bridge

On the other side of the bridge we went to the Art Nouveau and Art Déco Museum – Casa Lis. They didn’t allow any pictures inside the museum, but the collection was absolutely fabulous. I could have taken one hundred pictures. The building has a lot of beautiful stained glass too.

Going into the Art Nouveau and Art Déco museum
The Art Nouveau and Art Déco Museum from the River.

Next we went back to the Parador, had our welcome drinks, played cards and rested.

Sitting on the terrace relaxing

About seven o’clock we walked back across the bridge and went to the Salamanca Motor Museum.

There were so many beautiful cars it was difficult to know which picture to share.

For dinner we ate at Restaurante Cervantes overlooking the plaza Mayor.

On the way to the plaza Mayor we walked past the Cathedral
While we were eating it got dark and they turned on the Plaza Mayor lights
Back at the hotel we have a great view from our window.

Leon to Benavente

Over the last nine years Duke and I have stayed at 92 of the Paradors in Spain. There are currently 99 Paradores and 97 of those are currently open. Tonight we are at the Parador of Benavente, our 93rd Parador.

This morning before leaving Léon we walked all over the historic center.

Before we started on our exploration Duke took a picture of Jo Ann, Brian and me on our room’s balcony.
We walked by the Roman wall
The Gaudi Museum in Léon is in a Gaudi designed building, Casa Botines. It was closed this morning so we couldn’t go in.
We had coffee and tea waiting for the cathedral to open
While we were having our drinks we saw this interesting dog.

Léon Cathedral is one of my favorite cathedrals in the world. I think the open feeling and the stunning stained glass is what make it so special. They provided an excellent downloadable audio guide. The Cathedral was built in the 1300’s when Léons population was only about 4,000.

Leon Cathedral
Inside Léon cathedral

We explored some more on our way back to the Parador.

The Plaza Mayor was being rehabilitated
Plaza de Grano
I love this statue of a Léon lion coming out of a manhole

Once we finished our walk we drove about an hour to the Parador of Benavente where we are tonight. We had our welcome drinks and played cards.

Playing cards in the tower bar of the Parador,
Benavente Plaza Mayor
Restaurante Mesón El Pícaro for dinner
Our anchovy and sardine salad

Parador de Fuente Dé to Leon

This morning we took the funicular up to the top of the mountain behind the Parador.

Nearing the top
At the top of the funicular

We got back down to the Parador in time for our noon check out time. Then we drove through the mountains down to the plains, with lots of interesting stops along the way.

Packing up to leave. You can see the funicular in the background

Not far down the road there was a bit of traffic. On the whole though, there was very little traffic and it was a beautiful day.

We carefully passed these sheep and lambs
More traffic

We stopped at some great viewpoints.

Near the top of San Gloria Pass
Picnic lunch overlooking Riaño Reservoir

At the picnic spot there was an information board that mentioned the nearby viewpoint with the largest swing in Spain, so we decided to hike up to it. We hiked back to the car, left the mountains and drove down onto the plains to Léon.

Jo Ann testing the swing
We are staying at the wonderful Parador of Léon
Our room overlooks the front plaza

We have eaten a lot of Parador dinners on this trip. So, since we are in a city tonight I was looking forward to a local restaurant dinner. We went looking for a restaurant at 8:00 but couldn’t find one open. At Restaurante Casa Rafa, the original restaurant we had in mind they said that the kitchen opens at 8:45. So we sat on a park bench and people watched until it opened. We ended up having a great meal and the owner was very friendly and helpful. When we suggested the calamari appetizer he said the shrimp is better. So we had that and it was fantastic. He suggested the goat main course and Brian had that.

Sardine appetizer. Yummy and not salty at all.
Shrimp appetizer
Brian’s roasted goat
Strawberry mouse and ice cream desert.
The restaurant felt very local.