Leon to Benavente

Over the last nine years Duke and I have stayed at 92 of the Paradors in Spain. There are currently 99 Paradores and 97 of those are currently open. Tonight we are at the Parador of Benavente, our 93rd Parador.

This morning before leaving Léon we walked all over the historic center.

Before we started on our exploration Duke took a picture of Jo Ann, Brian and me on our room’s balcony.
We walked by the Roman wall
The Gaudi Museum in Léon is in a Gaudi designed building, Casa Botines. It was closed this morning so we couldn’t go in.
We had coffee and tea waiting for the cathedral to open
While we were having our drinks we saw this interesting dog.

Léon Cathedral is one of my favorite cathedrals in the world. I think the open feeling and the stunning stained glass is what make it so special. They provided an excellent downloadable audio guide. The Cathedral was built in the 1300’s when Léons population was only about 4,000.

Leon Cathedral
Inside Léon cathedral

We explored some more on our way back to the Parador.

The Plaza Mayor was being rehabilitated
Plaza de Grano
I love this statue of a Léon lion coming out of a manhole

Once we finished our walk we drove about an hour to the Parador of Benavente where we are tonight. We had our welcome drinks and played cards.

Playing cards in the tower bar of the Parador,
Benavente Plaza Mayor
Restaurante Mesón El Pícaro for dinner
Our anchovy and sardine salad

Parador de Fuente Dé to Leon

This morning we took the funicular up to the top of the mountain behind the Parador.

Nearing the top
At the top of the funicular

We got back down to the Parador in time for our noon check out time. Then we drove through the mountains down to the plains, with lots of interesting stops along the way.

Packing up to leave. You can see the funicular in the background

Not far down the road there was a bit of traffic. On the whole though, there was very little traffic and it was a beautiful day.

We carefully passed these sheep and lambs
More traffic

We stopped at some great viewpoints.

Near the top of San Gloria Pass
Picnic lunch overlooking Riaño Reservoir

At the picnic spot there was an information board that mentioned the nearby viewpoint with the largest swing in Spain, so we decided to hike up to it. We hiked back to the car, left the mountains and drove down onto the plains to Léon.

Jo Ann testing the swing
We are staying at the wonderful Parador of Léon
Our room overlooks the front plaza

We have eaten a lot of Parador dinners on this trip. So, since we are in a city tonight I was looking forward to a local restaurant dinner. We went looking for a restaurant at 8:00 but couldn’t find one open. At Restaurante Casa Rafa, the original restaurant we had in mind they said that the kitchen opens at 8:45. So we sat on a park bench and people watched until it opened. We ended up having a great meal and the owner was very friendly and helpful. When we suggested the calamari appetizer he said the shrimp is better. So we had that and it was fantastic. He suggested the goat main course and Brian had that.

Sardine appetizer. Yummy and not salty at all.
Shrimp appetizer
Brian’s roasted goat
Strawberry mouse and ice cream desert.
The restaurant felt very local.

Parador de Cangas de Onis to Parador de Fuente Dé

This morning after breakfast we went for a walk around the Cangas de Onis Parador.

The Parador de Cangas de Onis
The river beside the Parador

Then we drove to Covadonga which is just up the road. It is apparently the site of a battle in 722 that started the Reconquest of Spain from the Moors. It is also a sight where the virgin appeared to a king of the Visigoths. This area became the seat of the Asturias Kingdom.

The Basilica de Santa Maria La Real de Covadonga
The tunnel leading to the sanctuary
Sanctuary in the rock

From Covadonga we had to drive around the mountains to get to another beautiful valley in the Picos de Europa Mountains, Fuente Dé. The drive was supposed to take about twohours but it took closer to three because of road construction.

Before we got to the big delays we stopped to buy groceries for our picnic dinner.

Going into the grocery store
Our grocery cart
The road through a very narrow canyon is being widened.
We had several long delays and long stretches of one way road
In several places the road is being cantilevered over the river.
The Parador of Fuente Dé
Fuente Dé has a cable car which we might take tomorrow
The view from our room
Dinner in our room

Parador de Corias to Parador de Cangas de Onis

Our drive today was about two hours. Before leaving Corias we were able to look into the church. It was open because they were preparing for Mass. The church is a part of the monastery and so it’s built into the Parador building.

The Corias church
Inside the church

About half way through our drive we saw a sign for the caves of Peña de Candamo. According to Google they have great prehistoric art. Unfortunately the visitors center was closed and you can only enter the caves on a tour.

Entrance to Cueva de La Pẽna de Candamo
We have seen hundreds of of corn cribs built in this style

At the Parador of Cangas de Onis we had our welcome drinks, played some cards, and then went for a walk about two miles up the river to the actual town of Cangas de Onis, where we stopped for coffee.

On our walk
Stopped for coffee

Cangas de Onis has a magnificent Roman Bridge. We crossed it and walked back to the Parador on the other side of the river.

Cangas de Onis Roman Bridge

We had a great Parador dinner.

My pork carpaccio with apples, honey, peppers, and sorbet
Duke’s cheese board starter
My trout
My chocolate tart with white chocolate, pistachios, and cinnamon ice cream

Parador de Santo Estevo to Parador of Corias

Today we had a four hour drive from the Parador de Santo Estevo in Galicia to the Para de Corias in Asturias. We saw a lot of beautiful and interesting scenery along the way. The weather varied from pouring rain to sun.

Leaving the Parador of Santo Estevo in the rain

A lot of the road today was windy, narrow, and mountainous. About 20 minutes after leaving we stopped at this great vista point.

Narrow main road and a mirodor (scenic viewpoint)
High above the Sil River

Later we saw a sign for a Roman tunnel and had to check it out. According to this website the Romans built the tunnel in the second century A.D. to get at the gold brought down by the Sil River.

The side road to the Roman Tunnel
The Túnel Romano de Montefurado

Our next stop was Las Medulas, an area where the Romans used water to wash away an enormous area of mountains to get the gold out of the soil. They built extensive tunnels then filled them with water at high pressure and collapsed the mountains.

Going into the Visitor Center
A display in the visitors center
We drove up to a parking lot then hiked up to a viewpoint
La Medulas – the terrain left after the Roman mining

After stopping for groceries, we finally arrived at the Parador of Corias. The monastery’s size is the third largest in Spain. A sign in the lobby says that the Oseira Monastery that we visited yesterday is the largest.

Spanish monasteries listed by size

The Corias monastery has beautiful big hallways and rooms. The library is gorgeous.

Our room at the parador of Corias
The Corias Parador Library

We had a picnic dinner in the room and played cards.

Dinner